I was born in 1968. It has been an explosive time to come into the world. In my five decades here the world has forever changed at a pace never seen before in human history. In my life time man has explored space for the first time, computers evolved, the mobile phone and the internet were created, tens of millions of women began taking birth control pills, DNA was discovered and electric cars hit the road. The Berlin Wall fell, China emerged from almost third world status to the world’s largest manufacturer and the Soviet Union collapsed. The Vietnam war ended when I was a child but I also found myself in the navy in 1991 during Desert Storm. My children have grown up post 9/11 and throughout their entire lives America has been involved in the war on terror. All of this has occurred in my lifetime alone, and my parents are still alive. It is not just referencing historical milestones that is amazing. We Americans have also changed as people.
The year after I was born the Woodstock music fest happened in August of 1969. If you look at photos of the event there clearly are some observations the average mind notices. Other than thousands of hippies needing baths and haircuts, the pictures offer proof there were very few fat young Americans in the hundreds of thousands in attendance and even fewer name brands on almost any clothing article. No one is walking around with a bottle of Coke or water water bottle in their hands either. None of the women had fake breasts and few of the men looked like they had ever lifted weights. It was hard to spot anyone sporting tattoos or wearing shorts in August and no one shaved their pubic hair. My, how things have changed.
I have been in the food industry a couple years now. I took every cooking module at Kirkwood Culinary Arts program in Cedar Rapids and also went to Florence, Italy for three weeks last summer to cook. Kirkwood has a great program and I definitely learned a lot more about food and the kitchen than I knew before. But at 49 years of age there was no way I was sitting in a classroom again with most kids not old enough to order a legal beer in a bar. I already have one worthless bachelors degree, another year in the classroom leading to an associates degree was not needed. The program director cut me a deal and gave me a food service assistant diploma which I am proud of. I can hold my own in the kitchen these days, but I have been writing most of my life.
I have always wanted to write about some of the concerns I see that everyone in the industry knows about but no one seems to want to say. Right now, I see a food industry that is now on its knees from the COVID 19 virus pandemic. Not only were many of the restaurants and bars required to close in the name of public safety, thousands will never reopen. On top of this, the additional $600 a week authorized by the Trump administration, above and beyond the approximately $400 a week in regular unemployment benefits, meant hardly anyone would give up their substantial pay raise compared to their usual kitchen hourly wage. This left the kitchens empty as literally no one is going to give up the best raise they have ever gotten in a kitchen to come back and work for $12 an hour. The only ones who did were the people who didn’t qualify for unemployment. The shitty pay and lack of benefits in restaurants are only part of a larger problem in the industry but significant ones.
The restaurants that do offer salaries and benefits are few and far between and usually national chain restaurants serving fast food or short order cooking. No one can live off these survival wages and those that do are teens, immigrants or burnouts living the apartment life with a roommate. In short, to attract and keep talented employees in the kitchen the money needs to be shared. How do you do this? Simple, create a food service workers union or require mandatory $15-$20 an hour wages with medicare benefits for all. Who is paying for this? Also simple, double the price of the meals. These concepts are never covered in culinary schools in America. Nor is there a peep about the Latino workers in kitchens across the country who never go to culinary school but are fantastic employees for the most part. Another let down from a culinary education is the reality that just because you graduate from culinary school doesn’t make you a chef. Yet, your neighbor at the backyard barbecue who believes by wearing an apron that says “chef” on it is he is entitled to the distinction. It is bullshit. Thus, 90% of the kids finishing culinary school today will not be in the industry 10 years from now because of one dirty little secret; they can’t afford to. The Latinos will work 12 hour days for close to minimum wage. This means usually only ex cons, teens and dead beats can afford to compete for those jobs starting at the bottom. The culinary graduate almost never starts out as an executive chef or sous chef. If you are just manning the grill, fryer or appetizers what is the point of culinary school anyways? However, with a union comes training and accreditation. The pay goes up, the skills improve, the culinary schools are jammed and the guy at barbecue with chef apron can be called out as a wanna be.
Almost every restaurant owner believes unions or higher minimum wages and benefits would be catastrophic and they would never be able to even open their doors. Good! Close the damn doors already or embrace change. There are far too many shitty restaurants available to American consumers and at least half of them aren’t worth visiting twice. The American corporate chain restaurants are garbage. I long for the days that the Red Lobsters, Olive Gardens, Dennys, Chilis and Cracker Barrels of America disappear. If you are eating at these places I suspect your are culinary and culturally handicapped. The owners attend the company meeting where the board members promote these cheesy airport bookstore ideas. The owners come back and talk to their managers about the team environment, better food and service. The employees could care less. They want to hear about pay raises, tuition reimbursements and benefits not the new employee quality scoring evaluations. This materializes at the table with my waiter trying to start a short term relationship with me or avoiding me altogether. The managers are more focused on their social media following than getting to know the actual customers. Nope, a fortune is pissed away on marketing and advertising and little in the way of quality food or good pay for employees. The profit sharing usually goes to the owners of the franchises and maybe a few upper level managers. The waitress or fry cook see zero of this windfall. Most franchises also have average food, service and ambiance at best. The popular sports bars surrounded with TV’s and multiple beers on tap have a corporate feel that neither delivers great food nor a memorable dining experience. The only reason these places are even popular is because the NFL has gouged the fans so bad for so many years most can’t, or won’t , pay the annual subscription fees or purchase game tickets to watch games. I prefer to keep my football and dining experiences separate but have often been sucked into this trade off to watch the Minnesota Vikings get their asses kicked on a Sunday too.
Almost all the fast food places should be banned and condemned because they’re destructive to our society as a whole. In three weeks in Florence, Italy last year I saw one McDonalds but tons of small restaurants with both talented employees and high quality food. You know what I didn’t see? A bunch of fat dumb asses in football jerseys and baseball hats with guts hanging over their belts walking around with some ding bat checking her social media 40 times an hour to see if anyone is paying attention to her. No one walks around with a can of Coke or Gatorade either. In fact, the only fat people in the country are American tourists. They stick out like strobe lights at midnight too. The Italians protect their food industry through strict quality regulation and preserve their culture by banning or limiting most outside influences. The chefs, cooks and waiters are vital members of their communities and not looked down upon as someone too dumb to get a real job as Americans tend to believe about our restaurant workers. The truth is if you could make $30,000 to $40,000 a year with health insurance and a retirement plan working 8 hours a day in a restaurant in America there would be far more people who would choose this line of work as a career. Corporate America wants zero to do with this model and strongly prefer the vast majority of the money going to a handful at the top.
In America If we put chemical markers in the foods from fast food restaurants the vast majority of people showing up to the hospital with diabetes, heart disease and obesity related health issues would pop positive for these exact indicators. Yup, McDonalds, Taco Bell, KFC, Pizza Hut, Burger King, Arby’s, Wendys, Papa Johns, the crap in the food courts of malls and almost anything with a drive thru. These companies are largely responsible of putting profits over customer health and proper stewardship of our agriculture. They have delivered high fat, high salt, high calorie, low quality junk food for decades. These fast food meals are usually served with a sugary drink as well. On the US Department of Health and Human services website it shows in 1970 there were zero states in America with an obesity rate higher than 25%. Today there are 32 states that hit this indicator. Odd, we can force the tobacco companies of America into a class action lawsuit over the health risks posed by smoking, and have made a substantial dent in the number of smokers, but we can’t seem to clean up the fast food industry who is an equally destructive participant in creating unhealthy Americans by the tens of millions. The dirty secret in American health care is the obese people make great patients/customers for doctors. The guy that owns the big and tall mens’ store has no problem admitting this but not a peep from the American Medical Association about their customers. In short, fewer restaurants with better quality food, higher paid employees and higher prices for restaurant meals is what is needed. Going out for a meal should be special. Higher prices will keep most people at home and thus learning to cook.
Next up would be the grocery stores. The very first thing that needs to be done is for the state and the federal government to make some very serious changes to the Supplemental Nutritional Assistance Program, better known as SNAP or food stamps. Feel free to look in the shopping carts in the check out aisle and what people that are using SNAP benefits are purchasing in their carts. You will more often than not see chips, soda, boxed food and very little in the way of fresh vegetables, fruits, or ingredients from scratch. This should be stopped immediately. The junk food lobbyists would go crazy screaming, “This is America. We don’t need the government telling us what we can and can’t eat. Freedom, communism, etc…” However, the change would not be telling Americans in need of food assistance what they can and can’t eat. It would simply be the government not subsidizing food that does not meet healthy nutritional standards. Adam Smith’s invisible hand would come into play and soon you would see far more healthier options start filling the shelves. Another dirty secret about grocery stores is the amount of food that goes in the trash every night. The shelf life expires and the food can’t be sold. It goes straight to the trash bin. I worked at the meat counter of a grocery store briefly earlier this year. 20% of all the meat on the meat counter ended up in the trash. Instead of selling all at a lower cost they get the maximum price they can and subsequently ended up wasting a large amount of fresh beef, chicken, pork and fish.
For those that say there are food deserts I agree.I would say most of these are also in the ghettos of America. To these people I would say look up Gregory Bratton’s work in South Chicago. The 69 year old manages 86 gardens in the Chicago area and most of them in impoverished neighborhoods turning vacant lots into gardens. Much of America’s inner cities can host gardens in rundown properties and vacant lots. This can be parlayed into farmers markets and job training from the ground up. Indoor farming is the wave of the future and these properties are cheap to convert or demolish. One week of a heavy equipment demolition crew operating can create enough green space for public gardens for entire communities in most circumstances. This concept sounds like one hell of a good public works project or worthy cause for non profits looking to make an impact where it is needed most.
Now back to your own kitchen. On a scale of 1-10 how would you rate your own talent in the kitchen? Granted, not everyone is going to be a legitimate chef but are you culinary challenged? This usually amounts to simply being lazy. There are many helpful and instructional videos online if you sort out the seeds and stems. This leads me to the explosion in food oriented television programs. The vast majority of the shows are worthless entertainment leaving you hungry and with little residual culinary wisdom from the time spent watching. I do like watching Jacques Pepin’ reruns on the internet I must admit. I like the guy so much I wrote a piece about him awhile back. I also still like to watch videos of the late Anthony Bourdain describing the food and the lives of the people in various countries around the world. However, I think the whole idea of these subsequent rock star chefs and cult foodie followers is misguided at best. It is entertainment not education. The food tasting contests? Some of these are beyond stupid. Celebrities that have next to zero serious time in a kitchen rating and grading meals that you will never see on a menu? Dumb. I would rather see culinary arts and physical education required in all high school curriculums in the USA. Unfortunately, the food served in public schools across America is often far from fresh or made from scratch. The obesity problems start at a young age. The public schools are the perfect place for young people to learn the basics of how to feed yourself quality meals. In reality, many communities are run on tight budgets and the kitchen staff are not culinary students by and large.
How can I write a piece about food without starting at the beginning of the food cycle? The farms and the sea also should be addressed in this piece. Most people know that we are killing animals by the billions to feed ourselves. Our farmlands are drenched in chemicals to produce the corn and beans that go into countless products we consume including the animals themselves. The streams, rivers and lakes in Iowa are polluted with nitrates and phosphates that are directly caused by herbicides, insecticides, anhydrous ammonia and fertilizers. The yields are at lifetime highs but that is only because of the desire to sell crops overseas. Now that our trade war with China has started corn and bean prices have retreated to historic averages. However, the storage bins are full as farmers hold on hoping prices go back up before they have to sell. Good luck.
Spraying anhydrous ammonia onto fields started in the 1940’s and has accelerated rapidly ever since. Prior to the anhydrous ammonia invention and being injected or sprayed on fields they would lie fallow for a year to allow the nitrogen from the previous stalks and plants to break down and be absorbed in the dirt. Anhydrous ammonia injected into the soil turns into nitrogen when it rains making the fields suitable for planting year after year. The problem now is all the fields have corrugated plastic tubing called tiling buried throughout. This moves the rain water through chemically saturated fields to the pipelines, to the ditches, then streams, lakes and rivers. This creates algae blooms in the lakes that take up all the oxygen and kill off the fish. Half of Iowa’s state park lakes have had to be drained, dredged, refilled and restocked because of this. The other half are on the docket to be next in line. The dead zone in the gulf spreading out from New Orleans and the mouth of the Mississippi River is the now the size of Connecticut damaging the US domestic seafood and fishing tourism industries.
America easily has enough farms and ranches to feed ourselves. I am not opposed to selling our crops over seas just not at the expense of our environment. China and India can be taught how to make their own agriculture adjustments and advancements to feed their own people. These massive American poultry, hog and cattle operations, also guilty of over supply and environmental degradation, should be banned. The process imposes pretty cruel lives for the animals themselves and the slaughter houses are kept out of public view for a reason. The grip the major protein producers like Tyson, JBS, Cargill, Sysco and Smithfield have is a stranglehold on farmers. The same can be said for Pioneer/Dupont, Novartis/Sygenta, Monsanto and Advanta who control the vast majority of hybrid corn and bean seeds and all are genetically modified these days. The organic farmer can’t compete against these multi billion dollar operations and only the Americans with deep enough pockets and more than a passing interest in healthy eating are religious organic food eaters.
Our seas have become overfished and the last stop for much of our plastics. Primarily Chinese fishing vessels are to blame on the high seas. Thousands upon thousands of these vessels roam the seas with their transponders shut off to accurately measure the scope of their undertaking. The Chinese steal fish from waters that can be properly defended or patrolled. Most countries do not have the financial resources to have a significant coast guard that can protect their waters from massive fishing vessels using drag nets that catch, kill, freeze or can the fish before they even get back to port. I would like to see the US Navy operating in conjunction with the UN and start seizing these ships and crews. China has a lot of people that need fed but this robbery of our oceans’ bounty is unacceptable. The first thing people want in emerging markets as their economic livelihood improves is better food and this means protein. Instead of snakes, monkeys, bats and pangolins they opt for pork, chicken, beef and fish. The world’s oceans simply are not stocked with enough fish to feed the world on our current population growth trajectory.
The plastics in our oceans is now finally getting the press coverage it deserves. The damage to fish stocks and the environment is difficult to calculate but by all scientific studies being released today it is staggering. Plastic is estimated to take a couple hundred years to disintegrate in sea water. The explosion in the use of plastic across the planet failed to take into consideration the disposal. Most plastic is buried in landfills as it is deemed one time use and not profitable to recycle. Other plastics were often sent off in shipping containers to China and Asia to deal with, out of sight and out of mind. In 2018, however, China stopped accepting garbage from foreign countries and now nations accustomed to exporting garbage and plastics to China have been forced to rethink their recycling policies from root to branch. This is good news as investment in this recycling infrastructure is long overdue. The recent research and advancements in plastic eating enzymes also seems encouraging.
Next up needs to be addressing India. India has roughly 1.3 billion people compared to America’s 330 million. India, however, is a filthy and disgusting country. Sorry, I call it as I see it. Youtube is full of videos documenting the filth in India. It boggles my mind they can create a nuclear weapon, are fantastic with math and computer science but still shit in the woods, on beaches, in squat toilets or in the streets and piss on the sidewalks. There are roughly 200 million Indians that still do not have electricity? This is 2/3 of the population of America without electricity. India too will have a surge in protein demand. The Hindus don’t eat beef and the Muslims don’t eat pork. But goats, fish and sheep production will skyrocket in the future to feed their people. India will require massive and unprecedented changes in its culture, infrastructure and regulation to temper its impact on global food resources and the environment. India and China’s gigantic demand for food resources can’t be emphasized enough. There are modern day aqua farms around the world and I foresee these only expanding along the coasts of these countries.
The best food news I have heard this year, however, is the rapid rise of plant based proteins in the form of burgers and sausages. This is just the genesis stages of this transformation too. I have tried this myself and have to admit an Impossible Burger from Beyond Meat was better than I thought. It is juicy and has the same taste and texture as a hamburger. I watched an interview with the CEO and he explained they can do this with almost any animal that is harvested for protein. If Asian people are really fond of the taste of wild animals they will be able to buy bat burgers and snake sausages in the future. Imagine in the lifetime of a single generation the slaughtering of animals for human consumption becomes as unbelievable to our next generation as people commuting by horse back was to ours. Crazy to think that way but I say, “Bring it on!”